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Free Crochet No-Sew SpongeBob SquarePants Plushie Pattern

The SpongeBob pattern I shared last time was loved by most of you. That was designed to be a holiday keychain. This time, you can learn how to crochet a no-sew SpongeBob SquarePants plushie free from any additional theme with a free written pattern for beginners. You will love how easy it is to crochet one by yourself in less than 30 minutes.

The final size this time is 6.5 cm and looks so cute. The most lovely part is the cute googly eyes achieved using clever crocheting and just regular safety eyes. You can couple this plushie with Patrik Star, which is also easy to crochet.

Crochet Mini Spongebob Plushie Pattern

Designer of the Spongebob Plushie:

The designer of this kawaii SpongeBob plushie for kids is @aonikiri – she has expertise in “no-sew” crochet keychains and small plushies that are always so cute.

Note: For this crochet SpongeBob plushie in particular, I will provide you with the complete pattern using English terms.

This is the complete written pattern for the SpongeBob cartoon keychain. The pattern is worked in continuous rounds from the bottom up and is designed to be a “no-sew” keychain, meaning the arms and legs are chained directly onto the body.

Abbreviations Used:

  • MR: Magic Ring

  • ch: Chain

  • sl st: Slip Stitch

  • sc: Single Crochet

  • hdc: Half Double Crochet

  • inc: Increase (2 sc in one st)

  • BLO: Back Loop Only

  • Puff: Puff Stitch (3 Double Crochet Cluster worked with a common top)

Materials Needed

  • Yarn: Plush yarn (e.g., YarnArt Dolce or Himalaya Dolphin Baby) in:

    • Brown (Pants)

    • Yellow (Body)

    • White (Shirt/Eyes)

    • Black (Shoes/Legs)

    • Red (Tie – small amount)

  • Hook: A hook suitable for your yarn (uses 3.5 mm).

  • Eyes: Two 10 mm half-bead eyes or safety eyes.

  • Filler: Polyester fiberfill (stuffing).

  • Tools: Yarn needle, thin black thread/yarn for mouth and lashes, glue for eyes.

SpongeBob Keychain Pattern

Pants and Legs (Starting with Brown Yarn)

R1 (Legs/Base Row):

  1. Start with Brown yarn, chain 5.

  2. In the 2nd chain from hook: sc, and in the same chain work hdc (do not finish, change to Black yarn).

  3. Leg 1 (Black): ch 2, in the 2nd ch from hook work sc (do not finish, change to Brown yarn).

  4. In the same chain as the previous stitches, work sc (Brown).

  5. Next 2 chains: sc, sc.

  6. Last chain: sc (do not finish, change to Black yarn).

  7. Leg 2 (Black): ch 2, in the 2nd ch from hook work sc (do not finish, change to Brown yarn).

  8. In the same chain as the previous stitches: hdc, sc, hdc, sc. (This places 5 sts in the last chain).

  9. Next 2 chains (on the other side of the starting chain): sc, sc.

  10. In the first chain: sc, hdc. (The row ends here. The Black yarn can be cut and secured).

R2 (Pants):

  • Work (sc, inc) over the first two stitches.

  • 4 sc.

  • inc. (This increase should be placed near the space left by the leg chain).

  • sc, inc.

  • 4 sc.

  • inc. (18 sts)

R3 (Pants):

  • 18 sc around. (18 sts)

  • Do not complete the last stitch, change to White yarn for the shirt.

Shirt (White Yarn)

R4 (Shirt):

  • Working in BLO only: 18 sc around. (18 sts)

  • Do not complete the last stitch; change to Yellow yarn for the body. The White yarn can be cut and secured.

Body and Arms (Yellow Yarn)

R5 (Body/Arms):

  1. 2 sc.

  2. Arm 1: ch 3, starting in 2nd ch from hook: sl st, sl st. Then sl st back into the body stitch where the chain began.

  3. 7 sc.

  4. Arm 2: ch 3, starting in 2nd ch from hook: sl st, sl st. Then sl st back into the body stitch where the chain began.

  5. 9 sc to end. (18 sts)

R6 (Body):

  • 18 sc around. (18 sts)

R7 (Body/Eyes):

  • 4 sc.

  • Eye 1: Change to White yarn. Work a Puff in the next st. Change to Yellow yarn to complete the puff.

  • sc (Yellow).

  • Eye 2: Change to White yarn. Work a Puff in the next st. Change to Yellow yarn to complete the puff.

  • 11 sc to end. (18 sts)

  • The White yarn can be cut and secured.

R8 & R9 (Body):

  • 18 sc around. (18 sts each row)

Finishing and Assembly

  1. Stuffing: Firmly stuff the piece with fiberfill, shaping it into a square/rectangle.

  2. Closing: Work a few extra slip stitches to shift the beginning of the round to a corner. Flatten the piece and sl st across the top (9 stitches) to close the opening.

  3. Hiding Ends: Cut and secure the yarn, hiding the tail inside the piece.

  4. Eyes: Glue or insert the 10 mm eyes on the sides of the white puff stitches (Eyes 1 and 2), between R7 and R8.

  5. Mouth and Lashes: Use thin black yarn to embroider a simple smile between R2 and R3. Add eyelashes or freckles as desired.

  6. Tie (Red Yarn): Use a small piece of red plush yarn to embroider a simple, short necktie at the center front of the white shirt (R4).

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2 Comments

  1. Hey, what a cute idea! Can you share the pattern for Patrik Star as well please? It would be so awesome to make them both! Couldn‘t find it on your website. Maybe you can link it here in this pattern, as you mention Patrik Star.

    1. Hi, I have only a draft version available and it is has not ye processed! But here is the pattern anyway (be sure to leave a reply):

      Materials & Abbreviations

      Yarn: Sport or DK weight yarn in Pink, White, and Light Green

      Hook: Appropriate size for your yarn (usually 2.0mm – 2.5mm)

      Notions: 10mm flat eyes (or safety eyes with the backs clipped off for gluing), black embroidery thread, stuffing, and a tapestry needle

      MR: Magic Ring

      sc: single crochet

      inc: increase (2 sc in one stitch)

      dec: decrease (sc 2 together)

      triple dec: sc 3 together

      hdc: half double crochet

      sl st: slip stitch

      ch: chain

      3-dc bobble: 3 double crochets worked together in the same stitch (used for the eyes)

      Head & Upper Body

      R1: With Pink yarn, 5 sc in MR (5)

      R2: 1 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc (7)

      R3: 7 sc (7)

      R4: 2 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 2 sc (9)

      R5: inc, 2 sc, switch to White yarn and make a 3-dc bobble (first eye base), switch to Pink yarn for 1 sc, switch to White for a 3-dc bobble (second eye base), switch to Pink for 2 sc, inc (11)

      R6: 3 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 3 sc (14)

      R7: inc, 3 sc, for the first arm: ch 3, start in 2nd ch from hook to make 1 sc and 1 hdc, sl st back into the same base stitch, continue on body: 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, for the second arm: ch 3, start in 2nd ch from hook to make 1 sc and 1 hdc, sl st back into the same base stitch, continue on body: 2 sc, inc (17)

      R8: 5 sc, fold the first arm up and work 2 sc directly onto the stitches of the arm, 8 sc on the body, fold the second arm up and work 2 sc directly onto it, 4 sc on the body (21)

      R9: 10 sc, inc, 10 sc (22)

      Shift Stitches: Crochet 4 sc to move the start of the round to the side. Leave the pink yarn attached inside, but change to Light Green yarn for the shorts

      Shorts & Lower Body

      R10 (Light Green): 1 sc, dec, 3 sc, triple dec (pull up a loop from the next 3 stitches and pull through all loops on the hook), 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 3 sc (17)

      R11: 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (14)

      Closing & Legs

      Remove the stitch marker and fold the piece in half to align the front and back sides

      Crochet 2 sl st so your working loop is sitting exactly at the right side edge

      Stuff the body firmly, adding extra stuffing to the belly area to make it plump (don’t overstuff the pointed top of the head)

      Pinch the bottom opening completely flat to crochet through both the front and back layers simultaneously

      Stitch 1: Insert your hook through the first pair of stitches, bring the Pink yarn up (trapping the green yarn underneath), and make 1 sl st with Pink

      First Leg (Pink): ch 2, hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook, but complete the final pull-through of the hdc stitch using Light Green yarn

      Stitches 2-4: Make 3 sl st through both body layers using Light Green yarn

      Stitch 5: Pick up the Pink yarn again, trap the green underneath, and make 1 sl st with Pink

      Second Leg (Pink): ch 2, hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook, completing the final pull-through with Light Green yarn

      Stitch 6 (Last stitch): Make 1 sl st through the final stitches with Light Green yarn, fasten off, and weave all ends securely into the body

      Details & Assembly

      Glue 10mm eyes slightly angled on top of the white bobble stitches

      Using thin black thread, embroider a small smiling mouth right beneath the eyes

      Embroider two short, angled eyebrows high above the eyes

      Embroider a small vertical line or “V” shape just above the green shorts to create a belly button

      (Optional) Embroider small purple flowers on the light green shorts to complete Patrick’s iconic swim trunks

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